Tailor Archive

So i learn field wear three, my macro chooses draftshematic 46, but no longer makes ribbed shirts, makes pants instead... I increase number by 5 and it makes a jacket, decrease by 5, wants to make gowns...in crease or decrease by 1, makes another different clothing item...There is no rhyme or reason to this...Does anyone know how to actually figure out what number to use without the trial and error process?