CUEmu - Thread Posts

Sodiumcyanide

Fri Jul 09, 2004 11:05 am

#1

currently i'm a master doc/0021TKA/0021pistoleer, working on TKM.

i want to do some creature handling, but i'm not sure about the best way to do this.

as a TKM, i can master CH and have 37 points to spend in BE, or vice versa, or any mix in between.

any suggestions? i mostly PvE, but i don't know anything abotu creature handling, really.

thanks

Pem

Fri Jul 09, 2004 11:38 am

#2

Greetings,

As a fellow MCH/TKM, I can tell you I really enjoy it. I rarely need to get buffs and get to fight along side my pets. What more can I ask for?

I put the rest of my in Medic so I can do some pretty good healing.

It's true that a buffed TKM with good composite can tank way better than any pet wild or be'd, I find I can take on all but the highest of content. And, I get to fight along side my pets! OOps, did I mention that already?

Good Luck to All,

MrHawat

Fri Jul 09, 2004 11:57 am

#3

I too am a MTK/MCH love it. Cats swinging me swinging we sort of looks like a SWG version of the Tazmainian Devil. I put my remaining points in Surveying and Medic. I am not sure if "Dabbling" in BE would be beneficial for you or not. The BE forum could answer that one. CH has been changed to prevent "Dabbling." You have to be master or close to get the benefits of it.

You will find alot of CH have at least Novice Medic as well. So, if you decide to do that don't forget to do a few factory runs of good Stims before you give up MD and maybe create a few schematics for future use. You are going to need them.

Another favored combo is MCH/MRM.

GFoyle

Sun Jul 11, 2004 3:36 am

#4

BE is I'm afraid an "all or nothing" profession - you either get to MBE or don't bother with it at all (all those 25% skill bonuses at MBE).

Your choices are really

- Go MCH, and use the remaining points somewhere else (Medic?)

- Go MBE and dabble in CH (not very satisfying IMHO)

If fighting is your thing then go MCH.

If you are looking for a challenging profession that gives the game a different twist then go MBE.

"Dabbling" for a bit in BE to see if you like it isn't very practical I'm afraid - it's one heck of a grind initially! (Check the BE boards).

Gully Foyle
All SOE game accounts cancelled - and this time I'm gone for good

Centurion

Wed Jul 14, 2004 1:54 pm

#5

I started in BE and then dropped it. Got MCH and restarted BE. Made MBE before the BE patch and then got bored with pistol, dropped all marksman and went toward TK. I'm one box short of MTK and I'm enjoying it. I had to give up most of my CH but most of the pets had gotten "balanced" so it wasn't as much of a loss and it would have been earlier.

I'd agree with the position that unless you get MBE it's pointless unless you have some specific goals. For example I could see how it would be useful to have sufficient BE to make your own pet stims. I know since I gave novice BE up and then got it back when I lost my ability to make them. If you want to make pets or tissues then only having part of BE will probably prove to be frustrating.

Master Sergeant Banzai Draloh, sVn [W]
Master BE/TK
Wefaki J'org, sVn
Master Tailor/Artisan
Wookiee Wonderland Mall, Theed, Naboo: -4858, 3333 (Wefaki's Bioclothes and BE Pets)
Wefaki's Bargain Bioclothes, Kestrel, Naboo: 106 -4339 & -78 -4025

illewind

Wed Jul 14, 2004 4:24 pm

#6

I am doing TKM, CHM, and DNA Sampling 4...why?

Because I am an idiot to grind DNA IV...but because I have a BE Friend that I want to help out collect DNA to make the pets for me

prob drop it once I get enough DNA and pick up ranger 0030

Make it idiot-proof, and someone will make a better idiot.

GFoyle

Wed Jul 14, 2004 5:54 pm

#7

illewind wrote:

I am doing TKM, CHM, and DNA Sampling 4...why?

Because I am an idiot to grind DNA IV...but because I have a BE Friend that I want to help out collect DNA to make the pets for me

prob drop it once I get enough DNA and pick up ranger 0030

Nice in theory and I really respect your patience!

Two problems you will encounter though:-

You will not be able to sample the highest level critters without a stupidly high failure rate (this includes level 50 up), so forget mutant rancors, Bark Mite Burrowers and even not -so-high level critters like Rancors and Mereks which will give you severe pain for little or no gain.

You will only get DNA up to "High" Quality at best - andalmost all DNA will bein the Below Averageto Averagerange (this affects how well thing like specials "stick" as well as some stats).

This comes about because a whopping 25% of an MBE's sampling skill comes with the MBE title.

With other artisan professions which have a similar difference between 4444 and Master this generally just means it's trickier to max out the item quality - requires tapes/buffs/etcand/or more attempts. With BE this difference means the chances of something big and mean attempting to tear your head off are increased by a factor of 10! (and there are NO BE skill tapes or attachments).

Kudos if you can make it work, but be very aware that you may find that after grinding 4 levels of DNA sampling you may not be able to achieve what you set out to do.

Gully Foyle
All SOE game accounts cancelled - and this time I'm gone for good

illewind

Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:00 pm

#8

thanks for the info...I am glad I only had my heart set out on average DNA (just to make the lvl 10 critters). I don't plan on making the most uber pet in the entire galaxy...just somthing to help out newbies and people that just want a cute beardedjax

Make it idiot-proof, and someone will make a better idiot.

GFoyle

Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:09 pm

#9

If level 10's are all you are after then you should be fine - MBE actually works against you for making these!(The DNA is too good and experimentation can boost the stats too much).

Gully Foyle
All SOE game accounts cancelled - and this time I'm gone for good

Druarc_Cristar

Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:33 pm

#10

Well I'm currently 1/0/4/2 in BE and I've already made several pets I'm happy with

CL 22 9K Ham 37% Kin Dizzy/Knockdown 290-300 Dam
CL 26 10K Ham AR1 22% Kin/Eng Strong Poison/Dizzy 250-260 Dam
CL 24 7K Ham 59% Kin Strong Poison/Knockdown 180-190 Dam

Sure I get a few stuff ups due to low experiment points, but it can be done. Also I usually get Above average DNA samples, I've not seen a Below average in a while, and the high/average come with equal share.

As to making level 10's I knocked out 3 critters last night all 1K Ham with 10% Kin and Medium Poison in SP2, levels where 9 12 and 15 guessing this was decided by damage as top had 180-190 and bottom was 60-70.

But having said that I think the minimum investment to make useful creatures in BE would be 0/0/4/3 ie 27 pts plus 29 for medic prereq.

Druarc Cristar (Zabrak on Intrepid)
Beta CH, pre-cu CH/Rifleman
pre NGE TKA/Swordman/Doctor/FS
post NGE Jedi
Mese Melar Intrepid - Weapons Dealer Retired
Druena Cristar Intrepid - Officer in training.

ThorgoDarkClaw

Wed Jul 14, 2004 9:14 pm

#11

I know one player who is doing Master Ch , Master Bio E, and the rest into what can be done with tka . I have been told had verry little problems with this setup less the mob just was too big for him and his pet. He keeps the pet on guard so most anything that attacks goes for the pet allowing time to run or to attack it .

Having the full master bio e along side master ch will help out in the end far as knowing what kind of pet your getting . Being a master ch along with some or all skills in tka will really help out . If you do tkm along side of master ch you wont need to find many other players you will have a good group pet along side of you. There are times you might not find others to group with just pop out a good level pet and do some nasty damage on some creatures or some pvp.

DrexDrakon

Thu Jul 15, 2004 4:16 am

#12

Sodium, that looks like a good template. I'm currently a 0/4/4/0 Commando and MCH. I'm going to be dropping it in the near future for TKM to fight next to my pets. I'd put the rest of the points where they are now (for me) in Medic raising my current medic abilities.

Lowca
Antarian Ranger
The Echelon Guild
MCH/Master Smuggler

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